Hardest Climb of the Tour
Day 3 - 6/20/2015: 60 miles (157 total), 3465 feet (9386 total)
5:42 pm (1028)
Typical tour day, we were on the road by 7:30 after packing down our tents, and cooking oatmeal and coffee (supplemented by bananas and apples), and then made lunch (2 peanut-butter and jelly bagels, mmmmm). There was supposed to be a breakfast place 3 miles down the road, but we couldn't count on it, hence the oatmeal. Turns out there was a restaurant, so we had a (small) second breakfast after a five mile ride :-).
Then we headed off towards Sunwapta Pass. The pass itself is about 35 miles in, but the majority of the climbing, and all the really steep stuff, was on the way up to a false plateau, followed by a couple mile level ride, followed by a last push up to Sunwapta.
The ride until then was just truly great. I can't keep using superlatives because they start not meaning anything, but this was what we were there for. Mountains, falls, glaciers, everywhere you looked. There is no better way to experience this stuff than on a bike, where you have all the time in the world, and in some sense you *earn* those sights by our effort.
I should add that there is wildlife too. We saw plenty of elk, four bears by the side of the road (we kept cars between us and the fauna), and goats (more on this later).
So the climb begins, relatively long stretches of 10%, at over 6000 feet, hauling 50 lbs of gear plus water. This is the climb that Bill and I had both been worrying about, he for his cardiac issues and me because of my knees. I knew I was strong enough to get up the hill, but I didn't know if my knees would get swollen in response.
We hit the sharpest part of the hill in earnest after talking with a guy who runs rides from Jasper to Banff ---- in a SINGLE DAY. I mean this is 185 miles in the Canadian Rockies, a seriously crazy thing to do. The guy confided that he'd been running this one-day tour for years. trying to get people to the end rather than having to pick them up in his van. Guys failed and came back year after year until finally in one golden year, they all made it! Excitement! Except that none of them came back the next year (this one), so he has to start them all over.
He drives ahead and sets up his van every 10 miles or so w/ a real plush spread, everything you could thing of seems to come out of that van in massive quantities. The riders this year were four guys between 40 and 60, and a 21yo woman. These guys passed us up of course (hey, they were on unloaded bikes!), and were averaging close to 16 mph for the whole trip, vs 10 or 11 for us. I should add that at least two of them paced us up this nasty bit for a couple miles, before finally pulling ahead.
The climb started at 7% and quickly climbed to 10%. We all spread out, it's basically about survival for all of us at that point. I was most worried about Bill, who'd admitted to sleepless nights thinking about this climb. He started pretty shaky, 1km into the worst 4km he was shaking and weaving, despite all of us stopping frequently. At least I didn't think about my knees, I was too worried about bill.
However, at 1k in, he bellowed a reprimand from his marine days to himself ("Get your mind right, bitch!"), and that was that. We were all still slow (I was cruising along at 3.1 mph), but there was no longer a question of making it. We crested the top and high-fived, and if felt GREAT!
Our stop at the top coincided with the parking lot of the Jasper Skybridge, a glass-floored extension out over the valley, parts of it thousands of feet below. I had wanted to do this, though I don't do very well w/ heights and expected it to be an expensive tourist trap, which it was. However, one of the attendants walked over, introduced herself, and said that anyone who had just biked up that pass were welcome to go out on the skybridge free, so what-are-you-going-to-do? It was spectacular, scary, and I kept holding on to the railing. Why? I wasn't going to fall over, and if the whole thing fell to the valley floor hanging on to the railing wasn't going to help much. Maybe because when I looked between my toes I could see mountain goats at least 800 feet down.
After the Skybridge we had a short downhill and then a gentle climb to the actual pass (not the nasty notch we'd just summited). However, the gentle climb was into one of the most fierce headwinds I can remember battling. And remember, we were all using panniers, which are effectively sails when it comes to wind. We made it across the valley floor to where the road turns and the head wind effectively becomes a tailwind, and we were just boosted to the top, a short bit past the Columbia Icefields, where Rosana, Blue, and I had taken a bus w/ enormous wheels out onto the glacier years ago. I have to say that I don't remember seeing quite as many glaciers before, they were everywhere. Magnificent.
Going down the other side was a challenge. First, it was very steep. Contrary to my habits in other tours, I tried to keep it under 35 mph, as there was traffic, the road was a bit rough and winding, and the wind was unpredictable. Re the latter, at one point I sat up while going down a steep section, and rather that doing 35+, I was going 21-23 because of an intense headwind.
John, Henry, and Tom had stopped at the Icefields welcome center, but Bill and I were so stoked at having made it to the in good shape that we just kept going, and the next 20 miles sped past, getting us to Rampart Creek Campground. A nice, wooded campground w/ the same lacks as the last, except that it only had one water spigot about 3/4 miles into the campground, whereas we had set up camp near the front already. Turns out you *can* carry 4-liter pots full of water on your bike!
Now, we sleep....