(ride)
First day out of San Diego started tamely, but 2000 feet of climbing in the last 10 miles. I realize that only works out to 4%, but it was non-stop, and the grade hit 12.8%
Everything went pretty well for me. Knee is a little sore, calf was cramping up, very tired, but tent is set up at 3pm, the “RV park” is indeed an RV park, but it’s on the Viejas Indian reservation and is quite nice. Though the men’s shower doesn’t work. We’re still investigating.
I was the sixth person in camp, and only that slow because I stopped for a milkshake (hey, these people don’t believe in Second Breakfast, what is this nonsense?). On the other hand, I was pretty whooped at that point, five uphill miles left, and it would have been very painful without the break.
So we started w/ the ceremonial dip of the wheel in the ocean, and will dip the wheel in the Atlantic in two months. I waded in rather than take my bike down the beautiful sandy beach.
Tomorrow a similar climb. We’ve heard from some that these are among the toughest on the tour, and also from some that no, they aren’t. We’ll see.
Huge climbs, nasty headwinds, beautiful day, great ride. Over 4000 feet vertical climbing, at grades up to nearly 13%. Surprisingly, my knees felt pretty good and I was hanging with the big dogs all day.
At the end of the last big climb I was practically prostrate on the side of the road, but ahead of everyone just because the last several others had stopped for one reason or the other. I’m not proud of it, but I was quite happy to see that the others, when they actually crawled to the top of the climb, looked as beat as I did.
From there we had a beautiful 5-6 mile downhill, past the border wall (yes, there is one already in some places, this one going from San Diego to 30 miles east of us), and into the metropolis of Jacumba. Basically the “resort” (they have a jacuzzi), a mini mart, and a place called the “Love Shack” advertising naked art. Not what you think, it means that the artist (dude that owns the place) was naked when painting it. Hmm.
We spent an early section on I-8! Yes, it’s legal to bike on interstates if there is no other way between two points, and as long as you, the cyclist, exit and renter at every exit or scenic view.
Hopefully more pictures tomorrow when we have better connectivity.
Tomorrow a 90+miler, and it’s definitely not downhill. I’m going to be smarter Rosana!
Sadly, I was one of today's cooks, so I couldn't linger long in the KOA's pool or jacuzzi. The way this works is that there are 12 riders, plus two "leaders" provided by Adventure Cycling. Each day one of them drives the van and one rides "sweep", i.e. last guy in, ready to provide help to anyone. Amazingly we have had cell coverage for most of the trip, even w/ TMobile, so texts and calls to the leaders can (and have) resulted in the van turning up to help w/ repeated flats, or whatever need we have. Happily, only three folk have had flats so far; and in fact none of results from the dreaded goathead thorns.
So each day on a rotating basis, two riders are the dinner's cooks. They are also responsible for putting out breakfast and lunch fixings the next morning. They make out a list of ingredients in the morning and the leaders actually go grocery shopping. The leaders are happy to buy pretty much anything we request, if they can find it. Sadly, good craft beer might be no longer available in a couple days!
Tonight we (Annette and myself) actually just made spaghetti w/ meat sauce, garlic bread, caesar salad, and pecan pie (w/ whipped cream). The van comes equipped w/ a three-burner, about six coolers, drip coffee maker, two french presses, a couple tables, a camp chair for each person etc, etc, etc.
Two more days of riding, and then we'll be into Tempe/Mesa and Monday we'll have an off day. REI! Don't know what I'd want there, but I do like the idea.
Highlights today: - awesome malted strawberry shake w/ homemade ice-cream at Dorothy+Toto's Ice Cream Shoppe (the husband says he's Toto). - meeting Phil, the nudest ex-boogie-woogie pianist, and now used book store owner and soon to be the subject of a documentary. Picture is w/ Kelly, one of our two leaders.
Pictures are random residential areas, Dale handlebar mustache, not really a biker, just casually accompanying friend John (other guy) on a 3000-mile bike trip and kicking it. Also pictures of Tempe from across the river.
5085 calories burned during today's ride.
Next week is only five days, but 19k feet climbing, including one day in the 5600-5800 range.
However, the reality is that after a hard week of riding, clothes need to be washed, bikes need to be adjusted and cleaned, parts and equipment need to be purchased. This layover is a little more traumatic for sum. Jim, the guy drinking a beer in the van, had a shifting problem that a bike shop turned into a full-blown broken derailleur. He's going to be riding one of the tour leader's bikes, even though she's six inches shorter, hoping that parts will arrive the next day at our next stop. Kevin, one of the buddies I ride w/ the most had his chain break in the middle of the ride yesterday and also had to be picked up.
I was a bit unhappy that only van tours were offered at this time of year, as I prefer to travel "self-contained", i.e. carry all my own stuff, including tent etc. However, I have to admit that these kinds might have been SOL out in the middle of nowhere w/o the van, and my turn might come tomorrow!
The above is because tomorrow's ride is going to be an absolute beast. Not only will it be hot and 85 degrees, but we will be climbing at least 7300 feet. Despite touring out west, the canadian rockies, and the Blue Ridge, that's a good 500 feet more than I've ever climbed in a single day.
We plan to be cruising down the road at first light...
To summarize: - big hill, biggest climbing day I've ever done. - I triumphed - knees fine
I was seriously concerned about this ride, as predictions ranged up to over 9000 feet by ACA's app. I'd never climbed more than 6300, and that was on the Blue Ridge! In the end, the climbing was a much more reasonable number in the 6000-7000 ft range, though it's maddening that our various devices could differ quite so much.
There wasn't too much to this day. We knew that w/ the amount of climbing and the length (85 miles), that we we ran the risk of losing daylight by the end of it. This was made worse by the face that for me, at least, I was going to stick with Kevin and Jorge rather than try to follow the A-Team (Annette and Allen) up the hill and blow out the knees.
So this was long. There were essentially four climbs, ranging in size from 600 ft to 2500 ft, and wonderful downhills. Sadly the downhill from the biggest climb was marred by a lot of gravel and crap in the shoulder, where we spend most of our time. This meant that our highest speeds were a bit nerve-racking, and in fact Kevin hit a pothole at 35-ish mph, and somehow stayed on his bike w/ no damage other than a sore wrist.
It was fun, though, as we were all in it together, and everyone knew it was an all-day affair. There were co-ed synchronized pee-stops, hi-jinks (I coasted up and waited quietly between bill and barb at a light until they about fell off their bikes when they noticed me :-), other cross-country tourers (a married couple, w/ sag wagon currently being driven by daughter), and beautiful desert countryside. Miles and miles of undulating hills populated by cacti: saguaro, prickly pear, something like mammilaria.
In the end, the A-team got in a bit after 4, the cooks 20 minutes later, and Kevin, Jorge, and I 20 minutes after that. Only one rider, our recumbent rider Marianna was picked up, and that was just because of losing the daylight. She'd already made the toughest climbs and was just too far out.
A good, hard day!
- knees felt great
- lots of rollers, which I love
- decent tailwind turned into an awesome tailwind by the end of the day.
and today I didn't hang w/ the big dogs, I was the big dog!
I started w/ Kevin and Jorge, latched onto Annette and Allen, then caught on to Dale and John. Finally, I left them too. I biked along for about ten miles before slowing to let others catch up. I had no phone, and so didn't really feel happy about being out there alone for too long.
In the end, I averaged 17.4 mph for the 71-mile day.
We had a bit more climbing, mostly headwinds, and no rollers. I had not one, but two flats. Jorge flatted several times, but on from a single initial cut on a “tubeless” tire. These don’t use inner tubes, the tire fitting tightly to the rim and filled w/ slime. The initial puncture caused lots of hissing a rooster-tail of slime being expelled from his tire until the slime congealed on the inside, fixing the puncture. Then it happened again, and then again. But he made it to camp without ever needing to stop, whereas I spent 40 minutes by the side of the road.
Still, there were bright spots. The desert had an austere beauty. I told the guys to go ahead w/o me after the second flat, and so I biked across the desert all alone. Traffic had died down, the road smoothed once we were in NM, and I was able to feel a touch of what solo travelers would feel. In my case, however, I knew that four riders and a van were still behind me, and guys ahead of me knew where I was.
Then I topped a rise to see that the guys had waited for me after all, and we rolled into the KOA to find that Cammie’s (one of our leaders) stepmom had shown up w/ an immense amount of food, wine, and beer. Not a bad end.
So morning temperatures for both tomorrow and the day after are predicted to be in the 20's, so we're in a hotel for both nights. Tomorrow is a layover day, meaning that we have no place to be, so we have time to sightsee, work on bikes, do laundry, etc.. I'm hoping to go to a hot springs tomorrow, but we'll see how much interest there is. Otherwise, might have to spend extra time in the brew pub (which is brews gin and other spirits) downtown, in addition to the aforementioned bike and laundry issues.
We are making progress! Over 800 miles and 35,000 feet climbed. On Monday, we'll have an extremely short day where we climb over Emory Pass above 8k feet. There is an alternative route that goes by the Gila Cliff Dwellings, but it is 90 miles long and doesn't include Emory Pass, the highest climb on the trip. Not going to happen.
So more climbing the next few days, and then on Thursday we are into....El Paso. Then we'll be in Texas for a couple of weeks :-)
I took 20 minutes to bike to Walmart to replace my piece of crap little leatherman-wannabe w/ full-size leatherman lookalike. Total price: $3.87.
Tomorrow we have three ride options: i) 22 somewhat busy miles w/ 2000 feet of climbing, ii) 50 pretty miles w/ 4000 feet of climbing, and iii) 90 miles w/ insane climbing to see the cliff dwellings. Sorry, but I'm going on ii).
At this height the desert gave way to pine forest and was very beautiful, definitely one of the prettiest days of the tour, if not the prettiest. Ice on the surface of a pond.
The downside was that though my legs were feeling great, the air is thin up here! Made it much harder to climb. Tomorrow we'll be going over Emory Pass at over 8000', probably even more difficult, though that 4000' descent could be interesting. We had an insane descent today, grades > 13%, where even I braked most of the way down the hill. Too many switchbacks, some w/ gravel.
Today was all about climbing over the highest pass of the entire Southern Tier, Emory Pass at 8228'. The climb was 19 miles and at times absolutely brutal, but always beautiful. Craggy canyon walls, fir forests, unexpected vistas over unknown valleys, the occasional mountain lake.
All this was overshadowed by the view at the top. Not sure how far we could see, but I'd guess over 30 miles. Absolutely stupendous views in three directions. I've biked higher passes: Hoosier Pass in colorado was 11,500', but then I started above Breckinridge, probably at around 10,800'.
This was an 8200' pass that we climbed to from the sea level, from the sea itself in fact. Much more satisfying accomplishment. Also, the view from Hoosier Pass was, meh.
The elevation profile said the next 40 miles were essentially downhill. Maybe, maybe not, but ferocious headwinds made it very difficult. By the end I was totally wrung out, knees complaining a bit. (Rosana, my lovely, I'll be fine by tomorrow).
Seemingly long day as there weren’t a lot of distinct features.
Long-seeming day into Texas, though only 60 miles. First we went through miles and miles of pecan orchids. Pecans grow on trees, and the trees' ground needs to be flooded in order for the growth to occur, so we see this seemingly contradictory view of dry, arid, New Mexico, but flooded.
I continued my quest for all things green chili. I've now had green chili hamburgers, biscuits, salsa, tamales, and peanut brittle. The peanut brittle was the best.
Lots of frustrations with tires lately. All three of Kevin, George, and I have been having flats. Both George and Kevin had theirs fixed by bike shops. I work on my own, however, which might account for how many problems I have :-(.
In any case, I put on my spare tire today because the previous rear tire has flatted three times, and I only found the problem the last time. A couple pieces of glass are way deep in the rubber, and I'll have to try to dig them out w/ a knife. It'll become my spare tire. Luckily, I repaired all the flats with patches, rather than wasting a tube per flat.
Heat caught me a bit off guard today. Took two water bottles and about half of my 70 oz water bladder. Drank it all, plus a few sundry other things. Near the end of the ride I drank a 32 oz gatorade, then a Dew and a couple beers at the hotel. Didn't pee until an hour later...
El Paso was pretty much what I was expecting/thought: a somewhat depressing dump. It wasn’t until we were about 40 miles out of town before I felt like we were truly in West Texas, but we assuredly are at this point. No water, lots of dust, very few services. I love it :-)
But it wasn't a bad riding day, cloud cover in the morning, some small amount of tailwind. The short climb at the end was fun; several of us raced up and then had a nice downwind into Van Horn.
Tomorrow: Marfa.
Flash dust storm! Dust blowing right through tent walls, pooling on sleeping bag. Gusts probably 50 to 60, weather app says 12 mph. this rivals the dust storm in Malibu that we had on the west coast tour in 2008. I'm planning to spend an hour or two in the rv park's rec room, and then go back into the tent.
First on the agenda, though, I was given a birthday cake w/ four candles for my birthday, in addition to little pom-poms for my bike, a card, and two people blowing bubbles at me. Oh, and a balloon. I let the balloon go free pretty quick, though. Also, the cake and it's icing had gone separate ways, but it was very sweet! And appreciated!
On the ride I was reminded of what I like about west texas. First of all, it's wide open. No tiny little lanes, no slums of people crowded together. Instead, there's nothing but space. Space to roam ("Oh give me land, lots of land under starry skies above...."), and space to breath.
The color palette is different too. Lots of dirt, some dull green foliage, lots of yellow grass. Low mountains/hills in the distance, some showing the effects of tectonic uplift despite their relatively small size.
The goal at the end was Marfa, but this was a long day over very rough pavement, mostly with a small headwind. The last 15 miles were faster because of a tailwind and buildups of tar from truck tires.
In addition to the usual sights, we saw lots of evidence of the border patrol: trucks, tires chained together to be dragged across dirt so that later footsteps would be obvious, and a radar blimp. Not totally sure what the radar is searching for, small aircraft?
Marfa is a consciously funky town, and our campground (El Cosmico) fits right in. You can stay in your own tents, yurts, safari tents, teepees, or colorful vintage trailers. We're all in our tents, but some of us have reserved a "dutch" hot tub for tomorrow evening.
John and Dale, our cooks tonight, grilled steaks, ribs, and baked potatoes. We also had salad, but that wasn't grilled. They promise french toast in the morning. We aren't eating poorly.
Got to say that it was a bit lost on me. Maybe I just don't know enough about art, or haven't read his theoretical works on minimalist works, or maybe his work has influenced so many others that I've seen w/ Rosana that it doesn't seem new.
But over all I liked the work, and I was fascinated by the approach he took to establishing a new path, and retaining control of it. Good change of pace!
Just got back from DQ (most of the town is closed on Mondays), will talk w/ my student at 4:30, and then a hot tub for this evening. Not a bad layover day at all!
Today was only 57 miles, but it was absolutely brutal because of a 20 mph headwind. It tried us, it tested us, but we triumphed. You can't call something an "Epic Adventure" unless you have a few days that really test you, and this was definitely one of them.
Bottom line, this was hard but I loved it. The desert was exactly what I envision when think of west texas. It was beautiful, serene, sere, and pretty much exactly oppostite of the east coast. I love the east, but this was like an antidote.
Not having the headwind was incredibly nice! Yesterday Bill and Barb (who met while doing the cross-country TransAm 40-odd years ago got fed up w/ 10-12 miles to go, Bill put out his thumb, and they were soon riding down the freeway in the back of a pickup. It was a tough, tough, day.
This takes us to over 1360 miles, out of a total of around 3000. Making progress!
Tomorrow, however, will be an 81-mile ride, and Kevin and I will be cooking. We decided to make sloppy joes, w/ salad and fruit. After we had sent the ingredient list to our leaders (who do the shopping), we sat down to a GREAT meal last night of .... sloppy joes, fruit, and a salad (and potato salad). We're going to try to differentiate somehow, but at this point it consists of adding jalapeños, cheese, and garlic powder. Also brownies.
Today was shorter, but otherwise a bit more of the same. We were on back roads w/ little traffic, but the road surface was tar covered w/ pebbles, where the pebbles had not yet been squashed flat. Very painful, no fun.
On the other hand we had swimming in the dammed river (second pic), and have grass for our tents! Awesome!
The terrain continues to change. We're definitely out of the desert; now everything is green even though it's mostly scrub brush. This change will continue as we move deeper into hill country (the Austin area).
I'm in a Kamping Kabin today (see pic) just to have a break. I was able to FaceTime w/ my students for an hour; helpful w/ the paper.
I'm also about to take a nap :-).
'night.
Overall today, we had wonderful roads, nice rollers, and bluebonnets everywhere. We also saw a bunch of asses, baby goats (they scattered when I approached and some puppies yipped at my in outrage), a turkey, lots of turkey vultures, and a gecko.
I must say, though, that today marks the eighth straight day of biking, and tomorrow will be the ninth, for 500-ish miles. We are all ready for a day off. Luckily, Austin looms on the horizon.
Coming down Congress Ave was neat, seemed to get progressively more weird as I went. Lots of funky little places to eat at the park next to Lady Bird Lake (Austin's "river"). Then crossed a pedestrian bridge and went to REI (big, really big), followed by a stop at WholeFoods (enormous! two floors!).
Finally, a stop to pay homage to Rosana's monument, and finally over to the hotel.
Going to see Ready Player One in imax! Sorry Rosana, just gotta!
The day had finished by being sweltering, it was still 67 degree and near 100 percent humidity at 3am, when the rain came pelting out of the sky . I don't think it could have lasted an hour, but the temperature started dropping thereafter and was in the low 50's when we started the 90-mile day today at 7:30.
The first 20 miles were pure misery: on a Saturday morning the highway was packed with high-speed traffic for an antique show/fair that literally stretched for 5-10 miles. Shoulders were sometimes non-existent, the temperature kept dropping, and it started drizzling (which it did for the rest of the day). "You guys picked a fine day to be bike-riding, " booms the sheriff.
I had been riding w/ Kevin and George, but Kevin was doing poorly and talking about getting into camp at 7pm. That really wasn't going to work for me (cannot be on a bike that long), so I took off, hoping to catch the train of Annette (newly returned from Florida), Allen, Dale, and John.
I pushed hard for 20 minutes or so, finally seeing bike taillights. Catching up, I find it's Bob. "How's it going, bob?" I ask. "This day SUCKS," he shoulda back. Couldn't argue with that, so I kept going.
Another 15 minutes down the road I found the train huddling on the side of the road, not wanting to get back on. Eventually we did, and we had a good couple hours of push, but it was hard.
The shoulders remained slim to non-existent, the rollers way too long for momentum to be of any help, we had a 20-30 mile crosswind that occasionally helped us, more often seemed to be at least a partial headwind, and the drizzling, which had never stopped. And the temperature was down to 43 degrees, where it stayed mot of the day.
At 48 miles in we hit a convenience store, where we quickly went in to escape the cold. Understand that I was wearing polartec pants, a windproof jacket, and my winter "lobster claw" gloves. When pushing hard I was warm enough, but as soon as I stopped all the energy went out of me, and the knees, which had been quiet, started making their presence felt w/ a vengeance.
Just when I hit a low point (i.e. we were ready to go back outside and ride some more), our tour leader Kelly showed up w/ four tour participants, all of whom had called it a day and been picked up by the van. This even included Kelly, who was riding sweep. Evidently feeling a bit self-conscious about this last part, she actually volunteered to get back on her bike if anyone thought that it was necessary to have a sweep.
At any rate, John and I jumped in the van too, while Annette, Dale, and Allen went on. Jim, Bob, Kevin and Gorge also eventually finished by taking extraordinary measures.
Dale bought leg warmers and 79-cent gloves at the convenience store. George literally resorted to rolling up newspaper in his jersey to get a bit more insulation (Day After Tomorrow!). George and Kevin evidently made two hour+ stops at restaurants to warm up.
i made the right decision for me at the time, but I do wish it hadn't come to that. In retrospect, I could have finished the ride if I had been willing to take time out like George and Kevin.
Getting into the camp early did have the advantage of letting me meet bud Jerry Fowler at 4pm. After a bit of confusion we were able to find a place that served both burgers and beer. Though neither was great, we had a very nice visit and talked some about doing a short tour in Oregon/Idaho next August. Would be great!
Somehow, I had a brain fart and didn't get a picture of us. :-(
The weather kept getting better, high 50's and a bit of sun by the end of the day.
Then a miracle occurred! I discovered that when I greased the saddle rails Friday to eliminate a creak, I didn't shove the seat back the way I like it. Saddle position is honed by any rider over years. Being off a little can have consequences. Mine was way off during the horrendous ride yesterday. I knew something was off, it felt like I was too low, but I chalked this up to not wearing glasses. Turns out it was because my seat was too far forward by an inch.
So the effect of the "correct" position is that I have a bit less of a mechanical advantage, so yesterday would have been even harder, but my knees would have been much happier, a tradeoff I'm always happy to make.
So today was a breeze. Not only was it short, easy hills, but my legs felt so much better.
Happiness!
Also, today I was told my snoring is "melodic", and this was confirmed by another. I ignore the snickering from the corner (Dale!).
When the train of Annette, Allen, Dale, and John came through I latched on. We then cruised at mph for the next 55 miles.
I apologize for the paucity of pictures, but it just wasn’t an extremely photogenic day. I did miss the pretty river crossing with the sandy beach; we were just cruising too fast.
I’m cooking, so for hors d’oeuvres I put out crackers, brie, and fig spread. Even better, Cammie got a sweet onion balsamic spread. Mmmm.
This was essentially a recovery day. Only 53 miles, and we'd been told not to show up at the Merryville Historical Museum before 2. That's a problem when you routinely hit the road at 8 or 8:30!
Crossing into Louisiana felt like making progress, and we made it to the site by 2pm. The folks at the museum are providing this site to us free, though ACA will be making some sort of donation. When we showed up they had homemade cookies and soft drinks ready, they are making us dinner, and a hot breakfast tomorrow morning.
We're setting up in the front yard, lot of shade, a couple outdoor bathrooms and showers, and a couple picnic tables.
So we set up our tents, took showers, and are having a nice calm afternoon catching up on work, news, and correspondence
Next two days are supposed to be interesting from the standpoint of weather. We've already abandoned our next night's plan of staying in an RV park for crashing at a local church. We have two choices and I advocated for playing the Catholics and Baptists off one another, but was overruled.
Since today was so short, we had lots of time to do housekeeping. In my case, I:
Pretty great time.
... and five guys on the way out!
Today the big excitement of this 73 mile ride was a bridge out on the route. We all opted to inch across, probably directly violating ACA policies.
The fun was up once a police cruiser arrived on the side we had left. George, Kevin, and I were already on bikes on the other side, so we just eased on down the road. A bit later we saw another police cruiser heading towards the bridge from our side. By then we were pretty sure the guys who remained behind were at least getting fined.
Turns out that the police just parked and watched. When our leader Kelly showed up she just made a thumbs up/thumbs down motion to the police, who answered with a thumbs up, and then she very coolly crossed as well, as she takes her responsibilities as a sweep very seriously. This despite ACA's position on crossing "bridge out" signs.
She's my hero.
The ferry was about 45 minutes, and much of the fun came from watching the waterfowl: pelicans to begin with and then seagull-like birds who wanted to hitch a ride throughout. I have movies too, though not uploading here.
Once on to the next spit of land, we started 44 miles of riding into a stiff headwind. We were occasionally protected by trees or bends in the road, but a bit tough. Many, many large beachfront properties and hotels (Ocean Beach, AL reminded me of Ocean City, MD). We had a couple more large, high bridges to cross. The first was fine because of a big shoulder. The second not so much. Relatively narrow shoulder, low railing, many cars. I stopped half way up, waited for a break in the traffic, and then took a lane for the rest of the bridge. We're spending the night at Big Lagoon State Park.
Bob and I cooked today, meaning bob cooked and I did a lot of everything else: chair, table, stove setup, cleaning, and teardown, lot of chopping, setting out cheese and crackers and dessert, together with miscellaneous chopping for Bob's fish fry. Suffice to say that he fried a couple pounds of bacon just to use the oil in frying the fish and potatoes. It was quite good.
Tomorrow we're expecting rain, more big bridges, and we'll end up at Annette's house for the night. We'll be going out to a BBQ restaurant owned by a friend of his.
The big problem we have is that we're almost done. We've finished the vast majority of the tough riding, and I'll be home in 11 days. This makes it a bit hard not to spend most of your time just kind of waiting for it to be over. This would make for a miserable last few days and must be combatted!
Today was really nothing to write home about: long, straight, green forest road. Nice, wind wasn't bad, but monotonous.
Bought some Woodford Reserve to share w/ group:-).
However, these guys were in shape and they weren't content to sit at home; they were out grabbing life by the horns. Every one of them planned to be out on the road again, to take an epic hike, or some other type of travel.
I will be very disappointed if I don't see quite a few of them again over the next couple of years.